Despite the initial draw of tourist sites, some of my most memorable travel experiences involve exploring random neighborhoods and parks, college campuses, and even... cemeteries. There is something special about open-air environs in a new city, partly for being untouched by tourism but even more so because of hidden gems of beauty, history and a lens into the character of a place and its people.
On my recent trip to Buenos Aires, I returned to some of my favorite neighborhoods but skipped the renowned Recoleta Cemetery where its most famous inhabitant, Evita Perón, rests. Since my first visit nearly 20 years ago, it’s become a stereotypical tourist site with long lines, high fees, and sadly, an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Little did I know, though, that a much more authentic, historical, and beautiful cemetery experience was awaiting at the next stop on my itinerary—Córdoba, Argentina.
Cementerio San Jerónimo is located in the understated, working-class Alberdi neighborhood of Córdoba, known for its history of social and labor uprisings. The approach to the cemetery was an austere neighborhood park with a few vendors selling artificial flower arrangements and the requisite church adjoining the entrance to the cemetery.
Colorful display of artificial flowers (above) and the Cementerio San Jerónimo Chapel (below).
Cementerio San Jerónimo opened to its first 'guest' in 1843 and just celebrated its 180th(!) anniversary last year. This was the first official cemetery for the municipality of Córdoba, which had been founded 270 years earlier in 1573. So you might ask, ummm...where were the deceased people buried during those 270 years? Well, those of higher social status and affiliation with the Catholic faith were buried underneath or adjacent to churches in town, while 'second-class' citizens remains were scattered across undeveloped areas outside of the 70-square-block city core.
Part of the timing of Cementerio's eventual opening was in response to a scarlet fever pandemic that killed 25% of the population in the late 1830's. A few years later, the catastrophic fallout from a smallpox pandemic also reinforced the need for a designated city cemetery.
An aerial view of the cemetery from the late 19th century, where you can see it was still sitauted on the western outskirts of Córdoba. Photo credit: Fotos Antiguas de Córdoba.
Today, Cementerio San Jerónimo feels part open-air museum but also like a city-within-a-city (12 acres) with a central plaza, named 'streets', alleyways, plenty of trees, and cemetery equivalents of single family 'homes', apartments, high-rises, sprawling estates and distinct neighborhoods. It's estimated that 110,000-115,000 residents are housed here and growing slowly as any remaining family members are laid to rest in family pantheons.
You'll find meandering cobblestone paths, lined with orange and mandarin trees providing a citrusy fragrance to complement the otherwise earthy-scented cypress tree stands lining the perimeter. You're tempted to take a seat to admire the scenery, the peace and quiet, and the art-filled surroundings.
I was awestruck with the design, architecture and artistry of the structures, buildings, and sculptures throughout the cemetery. There were the simple and utilitarian rows of niches (below) that housed thousands and were sparsely decorated, many missing the names and dates or were hand-painted or carved into cement patches. There were occasional photos or memorabilia, especially if the deceased was a child.
There are also hundreds of pantheons (holding 8-16 family members), mausoleums (individually-occupied), and several large four- to six-story buildings with a total of nearly 10,000 people laid to rest inside (and not particularly photo-worthy). You'll see one of these large buildings in the background of the photo below.
Unfortunately, the cemetery was ignored and not maintained for a number of years, which resulted in it being ransacked and many plaques and artistic features were either stolen or badly damaged. Below are some examples of this damage.
It's easy to lose track of time while admiring the many architectural designs of the pantheons, including Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Baroque, Minimalism, and Classical, if I'm accurately recalling my long-ago art history class. Below you'll see a sampling of the variety and beauty of these structures. I also enjoyed admiring the elaborate and beautiful fonts for the family names and reading through plaques, ranging from the simple and typical memorial phraseology to more elaborate biographical paragraphs.
I liked simplicity of the one below, which was the size of an elongated phone booth (aging myself here).
The one below has seen better days but still a remarkable design of the structure and the facade.
I wish I had taken a photo of the entire structure belonging to the door below, which resembled an alien-submarine hybrid. I'm curious about the design and story behind it since it was certainly the most out-of-place pantheon.
The pantheon below was quaint and reminded me of an old train station depot.
Considering the obvious talent of the architects and builders of the pantheons, I was surprised to find just a single nod to one of these talented individuals (below).
Cemeteries are an interesting reflection of the larger community in which they reside and also its history. In Cementerio San Jerónimo, the people of highest status or most esteemed were buried near the center plaza and in grand pantheons or mausoleums made of the finest materials and designed by renowned architects. It's said that the well-to-do and well-connected in the area had a home in the city, one in the country, and one here in the center of this cemetery.
Cementerio San Jerónimo remained almost exclusively a place to inter those of the Roman Catholic faith, while others were buried in the adjoining Salvador Cemetery, also known as "The Dissidents' Cemetery'. 'Dissidents' initially referred to the deceased of other religious affiliations such as Protestants, Muslims, Jews, and atheists, but also immigrants from Croatia, Armenia, Germany, and England. Interestingly, anyone who died by suicide was also buried in this secondary cemetery, which unsurprisingly feels much more like an ordinary cemetery without the grandeur of Cementerio San Jerónimo.
Entrance to Cementerio El Salvador, also known as the 'Dissidents' Cemetery.' Photo credit: Angela Mercol.
It's obvious that Córdoba now protects, reveres, and celebrates the history and meaning of Cementerio San Jerónimo. It's free to the public, with guided tours available on weekends, which are sometimes thematic, such as political giants, famous musicians, and leaders in the medical, educational, and legal fields. There's also a well-done documentary that was released for the 180th anniversary, which features a handful of personal family stories of some of the people buried here and can be watched with English-subtitles.
My time exploring this beautiful and historical space and learning about some of its famous and talented residents will remain a highlight of this trip and provides me with emotional nourishment and a renewed impetus to further celebrate life...and death.
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