Those of you who know me well know that I love eating and drinking and talking about eating and drinking, naturally rendering it a highlight of my travel experiences. During this recent trip to Mexico, I commented to a fellow foodie friend that there just weren't enough meals in a day. One of my 'struggles' is whether to repeat restaurants or dishes that I loved or 'risking' trying new ones that I might disappoint. A handful of restaurants on this journey were definitely worth repeating, so that's exactly what I did! Hopefully you'll indulge me in sharing the pics and light (and at times random) narrative from my three-week adventure through central Mexico.
One of the main things that stood out in many of my meal outings was the care and effort that Mexicans put into prepping, cooking, and the beautiful, dare I say artful, presentation of dishes. It was hard to not be one of those people who has to snap pics of their food before digging in. My justification is that it will help me remember my trip, and if I'm lucky to return to a place, I can seek out those foods and restaurants again.
Here's a version of Huevos Divorciados, where corn cakes are topped with poached eggs, green and red chile sauces and sides of black beans with cotija cheese and some guacamole.
A roasted poblano pepper cradled in a corn husk and filled with a beef, potato, corn and cheese mixture.
One version of the ubiquitous chilaquiles dishes; this one with the green tomatillo-based sauce, eggs, and a generous serving of fresh herbs.
The chilaquiles dish below included a red sauce, chicken chorizo and pico de gallo.
A Mexican take on avocado toast below. Thick, fresh-based sourdough toast, beautifully poached eggs (an art-form, in itself), topped with arugula, cherry tomatoes...and slices of roasted beets. And, as if that's not enough, a generous serving of refried black beans with cheese.
Below is a typical soup from the state of Michoacán in Western Mexico, Sopa Tarasca. It a puree of beans and dried chiles, giving it a wonderful earthy, smoky flavor.
It was hard to resist avocados, as they're grown in great quantities in central Mexico, and somehow seem even more flavorful there. Below I opted for the guacamole with pico de gallo (instead of dried grasshoppers) and about a half-pound (!) of thick-sliced Oaxacan cheese.
I also couldn't resist another avocado dish, below, with thick-cut baguette slices covered in lightly-dressed greens, avocado slices and toasted sesame seeds. I feel like I should clarify that these were different meals, different days, and that I wasn't having multiple courses of avocado dishes...not that there's anything wrong with that.
While in Oaxaca, I was lucky to get a table at a popular, highly-rated (yet affordable) restaurant that is known for it's different moles. The sampler of three moles below was fragrant and beautiful, with my favorite one on the far left, called Coloradito, perhaps because it reminded me of a more complex NM red chile with a noticeable spice level. You can take the New Mexican out of New Mexico, but...
One of my favorite bakery/cafés in Mexico City is Panadería Rosetta, which now has a handful of locations. Although you're likely to be pleased with just about any of their French-style pastries, they are famously (and legitimately, IMHO) known for their guayaba (guava) roll below. Guava's flavor profile is best described as a strawberry/pear hybrid and it is remarkable paired with a light cream-cheese filling in this melt-in-your mouth flaky pastry. My willpower was severely tested to not order a second guayaba roll. I managed to distract myself the particularly lovely setting in a tiny parklet off the sidewalk (likely a pandemic remnant) and under large trees as the sun was starting to rise and people were starting their day.
One of my favorite meals was at a restaurant called Augurio, near the historic center of Puebla. The entree-sized appetizer below consisted of a puree of roasted eggplant with blue corn that resembled the texture of polenta, topped with crema and two large, perfectly roasted and caramelized heads of cauliflower. The flavors were complex, earthy, yet out-of-this world. The $6USD price-tag versus the $20+ 'cauliflower steak' entrees in the US was also hard to believe.
A Oaxacan street food that's found throughout central Mexico is the Tlayuda below. In several attempts to learn the pronunciation from the locals, my best approximation is clah-you-dah. I decided that the Tlayuda must be the origin story behind Taco Bell's Mexican Pizza. It's basically a super-thin, 12-16 inch crunchy corn tortilla slathered with refried beans, cheese and your choice of toppings. I opted for the vegetarian below, but you can add various meats if you're so inclined. Sometimes it's foldable and less crunchy, so you'll see people eating it like a quesadilla, but I awkwardly alternated between using a fork and my hands to tear off pieces.
Although my travels kept me pretty far inland, fresh seafood seemed readily available in restaurants and markets. Since I lean vegetarian or pescatarian, there were plenty of deletable options. Below, I made a meal out of these fresh salmon and avocado tostadas.
I also tried Aguachiles for the first time, which approximates ceviche. Below, I had a bowl of finely chopped cucumbers, red onions, and fresh chunks of tuna, which you then drench and marinate in fresh lime juice and eat with fresh jicama slices or the white corn crackers. It was light and delicious, leaving me plenty of room for another dish and dessert.
There was no shortage of ways to satisfy my Padilla-inherited sweet-tooth. Although I'm not particularly drawn to most Mexican-style pastries and bakeries, I do always manage to find French-style pastries in Mexico. Also, the dessert offerings in many restaurants are high quality and inventive. In Morelia, I had this seasonal calabaza sweet bread with a cream-cheese icing, accompanied by hibiscus-lemon gelato and mixed berries.
And for those of you who have managed to make it to the end, my favorite dessert of the trip was also at the Augurio restaurant in Puebla. A light vanilla meringue base, with hibiscus meringues and puree, fresh berries, fresh mind and a scoop of lemon sorbet. Its flavor profile and textures were as amazing as it is beautiful! On to other eating and drinking adventures!
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