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Writer's pictureJames Padilla

Toledo or Toledon’t?

The short answer is definitely Tole-DO!

The rainy forecast, yearning for a bit of rest, and dreading hordes of tourists were holding me back from venturing to Toledo for a day trip. I decided at the last minute to do it, requiring a very fast-paced 45-minute walk to the the Atocha train station, which seems inordinately large and challenging to navigate, especially when you’re running late and need a baño break. Fortunately, I made it on time (on all accounts). I was just settling into a relaxing train ride, when I realized the 45-mile distance meant a mere 30-minutes on this high-speed train.


After an almost too-quick train ride, I disembarked and was then immediately greeted by the beautiful Neo-Mudéjar (Moorish Revival) architecture of the Toledo train station. Some features of this distinct Spanish style include use of exposed brick in decorative patterns, colorful ceramics, wood ceilings, and arches.

Exterior of train station, covered in brick carefully arranged into arches and other designs,

As I crossed over the Río Tagus into town, I got my first glimpse of the Puente de Alcántara, the medieval bridge in the distance, dating back to 106 AD.

The Alcántara Bridge is even more majestic up close, especially after some afternoon clouds painted the deep blue sky.

Puerta de Bisagra, the 10th-century Moorish entry to the old part of the city.

Side of one of the many random churches around old town area.

Antigua Mezquita, a former mosque, which was later converted into a Christian church.

It’s hard to take in all the details in so many of the old-town buildings, but the designs under the balconies of this one caught my eye.

The requisite large and beautiful cathedral, formally known as Catedral Primada Santa María de Toledo, or Mary, for short (just kidding).

A reluctant decision to visit El Greco Museum while the weather outside was so nice, was well worth it. Admittedly, the cobwebs of my long-ago art history class needed clearing, but I loved the deep and moody colors of El Greco’s work, including this series of apostles.

The museum also incorporates the architectural style of El Greco’s home.

Toledo is known for their marzipan (as evidenced by all the tourist shops), but I opted off the beaten path to a local bakery. I tried a toledana, which was filled with a paste of toasted flour and candied pumpkin strands and covered with toasted almond and sugar on top. Although it was delicious, the biggest treat was sitting in the corner of the tiny bakery while watching a steady stream of locals stopping for their daily bread (baguettes) or a grandma buying a dozen assorted cookies as a treat for her grandkids. Almost everyone’s parting words were ‘Hasta mañana.’

And finally, just a few other lovely scenes around town, including a colorful tile facade and a humble yet beautiful set of stairs.



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